Buy Jandd Extreme Front Rack BlackJandd Extreme Front Rack Black Product Description:
- Height: (Overall) 16.75 in/42.5 cm
- Height: Pannier Mounting 12 in/30.5 cm
- Width: 6 in/15.25 cm
- All stress points are double-welded
Product Description
Customer Reviews
Most helpful customer reviews
10 of 10 people found the following review helpful.
Heavy but also very strong
By Tom
This is a great rack. It mounts easily and is very strong. It also allows you the flexibility to mount your panniers high or low. It is kind of heavy.The only reason it does not get 5 stars is the rear facing edge of the rack hits the down tube of my bike when I turn the bars to extreme angles. I have heard of other people having the same problem. This not a huge problem, but is a little irritating.You might check out the Lhasa front rack by IRD. It seems to be a knock-off of this one except the rear edge of the rack has a slightly different bend. It seems that it intent is to stop the rack from hitting the down tube. Plus it is a few dollars cheaper. Check it out!
6 of 6 people found the following review helpful.Not quite perfect.
By G. Allen Morris III
Coming out of the box the rack looked great. The hardware was sewn into a nice little patch, which makes you feel that some thought has gone into the racks.If I had been planning to mount the rack on my 1981 Specialized Expedition I would have likely given it 5 stars, as it fit that bike very well. attaching to the mid-fork low-rider bosses and the front fender braze-ons. But that was not the bike I bought the rack for.I had bought it for my 1985 Santana Arriva. And that bike only has fender braze-ons. The first problem was that the fender braze-ons are too close to the fork for the rack. This was pretty easy to solve by putting a standoff (a nut) between the rack and the braze-on. But it then seemed impossible to attach the clamp that Jannd supplied to the rack. The screws were too short. I gave up for a while and thought about just using Blackburn low-riders, but my panniers would not work on those, and I really needed the extra room that a front self would give me, so I went to the hardware store.With $3.00 worth of U-bolts and another $5.00 worth of nuts, caps and stand-offs I had a solution.I cut up an old inner tube and put the around the u-bolt (old low-rider rack hardware is what I really needed), and the plate screwed that on. Then I attached the rack to one of the bolts from the u-bolt. Tightening it between a nut and a cap.It is likely that this was over kill and I might have been able to just use a longer screw and a stand off along with the clamp that Jannd supplied, but it is on and is very sturdy now and I am happy. At least until I have to take it off.Note: The rack worked perfectly on a 74 day tour of Europe. Having the extra space that the rack gave us was a god send on our tandem.
3 of 3 people found the following review helpful.Good quality, but had to improvise on the mounting.
By Man-Powered Travel
Pros: I haven't had this rack for long, but I've owned a Topeak rear rack that has served me well and was quite strong and durable. This seems to be similar or better in quality and strength and I have no concerns that it won't be strong enough to hold the loads that it was intended to hold for a long time. It's a good size for having front panniers hanging from it on the upper of the two mid-tubes and then stacking gear on top of the rack and strapping it down. (Plenty of clearance between the top of a standard front pannier and the top of the rack) I elect to use this gear placement because I'm a heavy rider and want to distribute the weight such that the rear wheel isn't overloaded. (i.e. a bit more weight on the front rack than the rear rack.)Cons: Mounting the rack required a trip to the hardware store. The hardware that comes with the rack is just some standard length bolts and washers for mounting things to bicycles. They also had nuts, if I remember correctly, though I didn't make use of those. Into the spare accessory-mounting hardware bag, they go! The hardware bag looks fancy at first, then you realize that the hardware it contains isn't anything special.The back of the rack extends pretty far, causing the rack to catch on the down tube, limiting one's ability to turn the handlebars. This is only an issue when walking the bike somewhere and making a tight turn and is a very mild inconvenience that one can adjust to. While riding, the range of motion hasn't been an issue and I do some pretty slow, tight turns at times.Elaboration on Mounting: I have a 26" Surly LHT and those have two braze-ons at the bottom of the forks on each side. The shape of the rack allowed for it to only be mounted on the rear braze-on and the fenders also could only attach to the rear braze-on. This meant I had to go to the hardware store and get a longer bolt that could go through both the fender mount and rack and extend far enough into the fork to secure the rack and bear the load it'll be holding. They fit together nicely once I had the long bolts. :) As for the mid-fork braze-on, there was maybe 3/8 to 1/2 an inch of space between the guide on the rack and the braze-on. It just wouldn't be smart to bend the rack in to bridge the gap. (This wouldn't be an issue on most forks since the steel frame of the Surly doesn't require as large of a tube diameter, meaning most aluminum bikes will have wider forks that will be closer to filling out the space in the rack, thus no trip to the hardware store!) I used a longer bolt for these mounting spots as well and added in some spacers to prevent the rack from pulling in as I tightened the bolt and it also protects the bolt from weather a little bit. It's not sealed off or anything, but it should provide some added protection to the exposed threads of the bolt from the weather. The spacers are VERY snug and actually slightly bulge out the rack, meaning it'd still be under a little tension that would hold it in place (unloaded) without the bolts being placed, but the deflection is much less than if I were to try and tighten the bolts with no spacers.
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